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That Wednesday Session

by Miccah Doctolero

After one nasty wipeout, I decided to paddle in and not push my luck, which turned out to be a good call.

It was one of those days at Point when upon reaching the lineup, you immediately tell yourself it's a bad idea to get out. After one nasty wipeout, I decided to paddle in and not push my luck, which turned out to be a good call because:

1. I heard someone got out with a broken board that morning. It could have been Luna. What with my amazing whitewater surfing skills and all.

2. I was able to shoot! I haven't taken a single shot since I arrived. Sunday - Monday was flat AKA no waves to surf, no surfers to take photos of. Tuesday was so beautiful I wanted to marry it AKA no shoot, just surf. Small, fun waves, easy paddle out. I was out of the water just to eat lunch. It got a bit windy in the afternoon but we didn't mind. After all, we have to take whatever the ocean gives us, yes?

So here are some snaps of LU surfers taking advantage of what was said to be a one-day swell at the bowl. 


Kuya Textback Dalora from Samar

Looking stoked after days of flat spell

 

Kuya Tanjun knows power

 


Kuya Keks surfing with aloha

 

Jay-r Esquivel having his breakfast

 


Malibu shaper Ian Zamora

 

Imagining the day when Point will be kind to me,

Miccah

To see more of Miccah Doctolero's stories, visit www.ohrecklessabandon.blogspot.com.

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