The Sweetness of Doing Nothing

I wish I asked someone from the island what “Calaguas” means. It could have borne the word I’m looking for to describe its beauty. Imagine Boracay, Batanes, and Anawangin all rolled into one – I don’t have a word for it. I guess you should see it for yourself.

Going to Calaguas was quite a travel. It took us 9 hours on the road from Manila to Daet, Camarines Norte; then another 2-hour boat ride to the island. It was a long, scorching ride but it was the kind of ride you’d remove your sunglasses for so you could take in all the beautiful sights. It sounds cliché, but yes, the trip was worth it. 

(Photo by Karlo Atienza)

Calaguas is not actually the name of the island where visitors stay. The island is called Tinaga where Mahabang Buhangin or Long Beach is located. Calaguas, however, is the collective name of the group of islands in the northern part of Camarines Norte.

When going to Calaguas, do not expect luxurious services. You would need to sleep in a tent or on the sand, cook your own food by natural fire, eat in a hut, take a bath in makeshift cubicles, and the like. There is no cellular signal on the island, and electricity comes from generators. It is basically an unplugged camping vacation but the best R&R-slash-catch-up-with-friends holiday.

(Photo by Mariko Maraan)

I have been planning on visiting Calaguas since last year, so now that it finally happened, I prepared a list of noteworthy details during my two-day stay on the island.

1. The beach

(Hello Pat! :) Photo by Karlo Atienza)

The main reason I wanted to visit Calaguas was to check if it could give Boracay a run for its money. I wasn’t disappointed. It actually exceeded my expectations. The water is aquamarine-clear you can still see another person’s limbs underwater even a meter away from you. No kidding. Just look at the picture above.

If you’ve been with me on a beach trip, you would know I’m very fussy on seas. My time spent in the sea depends on how safe I feel swimming in the water. In Calaguas, if not for the unforgiving heat, I would have stayed all day in the sea/shore. There were no molds; waves were tame; and the shore was spotless. The coast was literally clear.

(Photo by Karlo Atienza)

The sand is surprisingly white and powdery-soft. The shore is like a long stretch of Boracay Station One’s shore – vast and clean. I wouldn’t mind sleeping on the sand or worry sleeping on or beside “dirt”. It’s just plain clean. Calaguas people really know how to take care of the island.

2. The view

(Photos by Karlo Atienza)

For me, sunsets are always the best part of beach trips. I make sure I get a view of the surroundings temporarily turning into caramel, and people taking pictures to get the most of the golden hour. It was beautiful and funny, respectively.

Other than beautiful sunsets, Calaguas has Tinaga Hill. It resembles Batanes’s hills with its rolling, semi-manicured hills. I am not much of a hiking fan but our 30-minute walk to the summit was do-able. We passed by fields and mangroves on our way up. When we reached the top, we were rewarded with the panoramic view of the sea and… cellular signal (but you have to find the perfect spot)!

(Photo by Karlo Atienza) 

(Photo by Mariko Maraan)

Everything was picturesque up there. I realized how big the island is. There are more or less four long shores surrounding Tinaga. On the other side, you will see the populated part of the island where concrete houses are built. Tinaga Island has so much to offer. No wonder, it is an appealing destination for backpackers.

3. The food

Our food was already pre-arranged. We availed a package from Calaguas Local to save us the hassle of cooking. Our tour host brought people from Daet to cook for our group. We were doubtful at first since they'd be working on a budget and that could translate to mediocre cooking, BUT the food was surprisingly very good! They served three dishes, "unlimited" rice, and mango for every meal. You can even go for another serving if there's remaining food - which was all the time!

Once, they served laing (a spicy Bicol delicacy with coconut milk) and we just flipped. It was very delicious - not too spicy, salty and sticky. It just had the right amount of coconut milk. I couldn't pinpoint what made it different from other laings I already ate but it had a distinct taste that made it appetizing. Overall, it was one of the most gastronomically satisfying trips I've done.

(Photos from Google)

4. The environment

Everything seems nice in Calaguas - the people, the sea, the air, the vibe. It's like they're meant to go perfectly well together to give visitors the best vacation. The sea alone is enough reason to consider it as one of the best beach trips. The locals are very helpful too. Someone from our group lost his sunglasses so they asked help from the locals. The children helped him retrieve it. Another time, when we were leaving the island, we had to carry a big, heavy cooler to the boat so we asked someone to help us. When we were already giving him a tip, he politely refused the money and told us it was okay. Those might just be common gestures but it left a big impression on the values of people on the island.

Another thing I love about the island is their dogs. The dogs freely roam around and they are extra friendly. They don't get averted to and go grumpy on people. Do you know that adage about dogs? That their temperament is a reflection of their master's personality. Well, I think it's true in Calaguas. Genuinely good people = sweet dogs. 

(Photo by Karlo Atienza)

I also got to talk to one of our tour coordinators, and asked why telecommunations companies haven’t put up cellular sites on the island yet. He said the locals oppose it because it could set off overcommercialization of the island. They want to keep Calaguas the way it is now – unspoiled and peaceful.

(Photos by Karlo Atienza) 

5. The vacation

There’s a certain charm in the isolation that Calaguas offers. Realizing you’ll be disconnected from your regular routine would make you think of other things you should do. I’ve been so active online that it felt weird to just sit in one place and do nothing. I think I slept too much for two days, enough to compensate for two weeks of sleep deprivation. All of us were well-rested, well-fed, properly intoxicated, and overly tanned. 

(Photos by Karlo Atienza)

I was with my family and brothers’ friends during this trip. They are a fun lot. We talked over drinks and did some catching up on our current pursuits. It was a quiet and organic vacation – no parties, no technological obstructions, no deadlines. It's just like how Eat, Pray, Love puts it - "dolce far niente" or the sweetness of doing nothing.  

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Facts:

1. We availed of 3D/2N package from Calaguas Local. We paid 3,699 PHP each inclusive of roundtrip bus transport, six full meals, basic beach tent accommodation, island boat transfers, and island fees. You can contact Andy at 09175573355 for trip bookings. You can also contact Rocky from Daet at 09359555372. He's a very adorable, entertaining guy! You should meet him while you're there. :)

("Heeey Rocky!" Photo by Karlo Atienza)

2. If you want to trek Tinaga Hill, you can ask a local boy to accompany you up. Don't forget to give him a token of appreciation.

3. Beach volleyball, football, and frisbee facilities are available. You can rent them from sari-sari stores on the island. 

4. For island hopping and snorkeling, the boat usually costs 2,000-3,000 PHP depending on size and availability. The cost be shared among 10-12 people. The tour can last for 4-5 hours.

5. If you're not used to tent accommodation, there's a resort called Waling-Waling. They have cabanas (with beds) and kubols (with beds and a bathroom), and a restaurant used for conferences and team building. You can check their website for inquiries and rates.

6. To know how to get to Calaguas via air or land, click this link. 

7. For hassle-free and customized travel packages, you can reach Manaul Journeys at info@manualjourneys.com or +693178462426.